The craft beers of the province of Sondrio have increasingly found their place in the local food and wine scene, establishing themselves as one of the experiences most appreciated by tourists in search of authentic flavors. A reality that has now become an integral part of provincial specialties (thanks also to the work of Beertellina, the association that brings together local breweries) which has its roots in an ancient tradition: already two centuries ago, in Valchiavenna, quality craft beer was being produced.

On Saturday evening, August 23, this vocation found a particular expression in SondaLOVE Beer, a new event that enriched the province's calendar. And it was an immediate success: 350 BeerPass sold and over 1000 people in the streets of the historic center, with a tremendous turnout in Piazza della Repubblica, the heart of the festival. Here, the Beertellina booth gathered all the beers present at the various stations.

Walking through the historic center of Sondalo means breathing in the authentic atmosphere of an alpine village. The old lowered shutters tell of a flourishing commercial and artisanal past, which began to lose strength in the 1970s. The cobbled streets, with pebbles smoothed by time, guide the visitor through narrow alleys, steep climbs, and sudden squares, in an urban landscape rich in suggestions, where every step evokes stories of generations.

Along the way, you cannot miss the large heavy wooden doors, framed by arched stone portals, distinctive signs of Valtellinese architecture. It is this very setting that transforms, for one night, into the perfect backdrop for SondaLOVE Beer: a “beer gastronomic” walk that combines tastings, music, and meetings.

But the event was not limited to taste: thanks to the Valtellina Oldtimers association, the village relived the atmosphere of the past, through an original itinerary, "A Journey through Motors, Trades, and Alpine Memory." Not just a simple exhibition of vintage cars, but ten scenic displays that restored fragments of everyday life from the 20th century: tractors, motorcycles, motor trucks, military vehicles, accompanied by panels that told stories of families, jobs, and passions.

Thus, between a Lager and a Weizen, the audience was transported on a time travel, stopping for example in front of two Cinquecento parked under shutters closed for years, reading the story of "two sisters and a shop. “… June 1958. The morning is already lively among the cobbled alleys, the aroma of freshly baked bread mixes with that of finely sliced bresaola…." Other corners held evocative tales: from Ugo's wine to hay days, from alpine toil to villages filled with silence, to Marco's workshop, marriages under frescoes, winters with carburetors, and a new life beginning on board a car.

For motor enthusiasts, there was also the Oldtimers Court, where they could browse collections of historic plates, vintage objects, and listen to anecdotes shared by members.

Then the gastronomic route, greatly appreciated both for the quality of the products and for the organization of the distribution. A taste journey that combined dishes from Valtellinese tradition and craft beers, starting with Butega Valtellina. A platter of “unique, non-typical” cold cuts and cheeses, featuring culatello and a matured cheese with a strong flavor. Accompanied by two beer recommendations: Mani di Fata – Rye IPA (Birrificio Revertis) with organic rye from Teglio, and Cech Cost Lager – Helles (Birrificio Legnone), gluten-free, both capable of enhancing the complexity of the cheeses.

At the second station, curated by the APF of Sondalo, here are the gnocchetti valtellinesi made with buckwheat, accompanied by two beers from Birrificio Reit: Stelvio Lager and Weizen made with Valtellinese buckwheat. The latter proved particularly suitable for the dish. Chef Sandro, a teacher at Vallesana - APF Valtellina, proudly explained the recipe: mixed flour gnocchetti, seasoned with melted butter, stewed sauerkraut, pancetta, grated Casera, thyme, and a slice of lemon-marinated apple. An ancient recipe from Valdisotto, Oga area, that preserves the flavors of tradition intact.

The route also took visitors next to Bui Redond, the ancient octagonal fountain of Sondalo, fed by a spring located just above it, that of Bui de San Clemént. In history, these are the first two fountains of Sondalo, which allowed residents to have clear water in the center of the village, despite the murky water from the Rio stream or that distant from the Adda river. The legend tells that a pilgrim, arriving on horseback in Sondalo after a long journey, asked a farmer for water. The man had to go down to the Adda to fill a bucket. The traveler, after quenching his and his horse's thirst, moved by compassion for such toil, touched a rock with his staff: immediately a clear spring gushed forth. From that water was born the first fountain of Sondalo: Il Bui di San Clemént.

The third station featured chef Remo from Bar Palasport, in collaboration with the Sgangherati of Frontale: Valtellinese hamburger a gourmet sandwich with cooked meat, sesame seed brioche bread, Casera, tomato, lettuce, and barbecue sauce, accompanied by baked potatoes with skin. Two beers were paired: amber APA (Birrificio Revertis) and Crasc Stout (Birrificio Pintalpina), the latter pleasantly complex, just like Remo's sandwich, flavors of chinotto and licorice blending well with the complex notes of the sauce.

In conclusion, the route guided participants along the small road towards the church of Santa Marta, paved with ancient cobblestones. In front of the sacred building, two vintage cars decorated for a wedding evoked past celebrations, in an atmosphere suspended between history and tradition. Another story.” Summer 1972, a yes under the frescoes. “Summer 1972… first arrives the Fiat 128 sedan, white and immaculate, brand new from the dealership, with the bride's parents: the father in a dark grey suit and the mother in a powder pink tailored suit, cinched at the waist. The car glides silently on the cobbles, parks carefully, someone claps quietly…”

Inside the church, visitors admired a watercolor exhibition by local artists before concluding with a refined dessert, prepared by Viveca, a local pastry chef, and served by the girls from APT Sondalo.

Panna cotta with dark beer gelée and crunchy crumble. Excellent, the light beer flavor, the crunchiness of the crumble, which pairs well with the creaminess of the panna. Recommended beers: Murimani – Fruit Beer (Birrificio Pintalpina) with raspberries and Molthoney and Honey Beer (Mieleria Moltoni) with forest honeydew honey.

Further enlivening the evening were the live music of Il Teo di Lecco, DJ sets by BeClub Bormio and Andre DJ, along with the accordions of Alberto Canclini and Bepi Zen, which resonated through the village.

SondaLOVE Beer turned out to be much more than an event: it was a collective embrace between taste and memory, between innovation and tradition. A toast to authentic Valtellina, capable of bringing its streets, its stories, and its flavors to life with the warmth of a community that knows how to celebrate both the past and the future.

B. Ciaponi

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“We are happy with the result of this first edition: despite a very busy period of events and initiatives, we believe we managed to propose something new, which saw the participation of many residents and tourists. It was an important commitment, but fully rewarded by positive feedback and the satisfaction of having created an evening that brought together people, tastes, and traditions. We are proud not only of the success achieved but also of the new collaborations established, starting with that with Beertellina, which, together with us, promoted the event offering a selection of the best Valtellinese breweries. The meeting of craft beers and traditional dishes from our valley created a special path of flavors and aromas, capable of narrating the authenticity of Valtellina. A heartfelt thank you goes to all the people and associations that contributed to the realization of the event (UBT, APF Valtellina, Butega Valtellina, Bar palasport with Sgangherati Frontale and Li Simenza), to the many volunteers who enthusiastically made this day possible. Thanks also to the artists who enriched the event with their presence. A special thought goes to the Association Valtellina Oldtimers, which with the route dedicated to historical vehicles gifted a unique soul to the party and to the owners of the courtyards who generously opened their spaces. This first edition demonstrated how the historic center of Sondalo can become the beating heart of meetings, flavors, and shared memories again: a precious heritage to be preserved and valued together. SondaLOVE Beer looks forward to seeing you next year: in the meantime, we are already working on autumn events, including the gastronomic walk La Migiondara, in the village of Migiondo that will take place on October 12, with several novelties.”

Curated by Renato Ciaponi, agronomist and journalist

APT Sondalo